How to Grow Pinyon Pine

Single Leaf Pinion Pine

by Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Single Leaf Pinion Pine

Botanical Names – Pinus edulis

Common Name – Two-Needle Pinyon Pine

Plant Type – Evergreen tree

Mature Size – 20 feet tall, 15 feet wide

Sun Exposure – At least 6+ hours per day

Soil Type – Adapts to dry, well-drained soils

Bloom Time – Spring

Flower Color – Red & Yellow

Hardiness Zones – 5 to 8, USDA

Native Area – North America

How to Grow Pinyon Pine

This tree has few restrictions on how to grow it; the only place it struggles is in dense shade. It is an ideal tree to plant in locations where you want filtered shade rather than the deep shade created by many other landscape trees. It’s a good lawn tree since it allows plenty of filtered light to reach down to the grass. Keep the tree well-watered, and make sure to protect the trunks against damage from lawnmowers and other lawn equipment, as the bark is tender and prone to injury. Applying a ring of Watters Premium Mulch, of shredded cedar bark around the base of the tree is ideal, as it keeps mowers away from the trunk.

Light

Full sun is preferred by these trees, although young trees will grow well in partial shade.

Soil

The Pinyon Pine is a super hardy tree and can grow well in different types of soil. Loam is ideal, but sand or clay will also be sufficient for this tree to thrive.

Water

Water twice monthly; less once well established, more in extreme heat. The water guide for this tree is deep soak as soon as planted and weekly for the first year. A one-hour trickle that slowly saturates the root provides proper water for a new tree. Adjust watering based on rainfall.

Temperature and Humidity

Honey locust can grow in a variety of climate conditions, but it will perish if exposed to temperatures below minus -33 degrees F.

Fertilizer

Older trees rarely need additional irrigation or fertilizing, especially if they are in an irrigated, fertilized lawn. For young trees feed three times per year with 7-4-4 All Purpose Food (March, July, and October).

Pruning

Pinyon Pine trees need little pruning except to remove dead or diseased branches. The best time to prune is in late winter (January through March), when sap flow is reduced by colder weather.

Better Together: Companion Plants for February

Lily of the Valley

This gorgeous shrub loves growing in the summer shade of a Pinyon Pine. This bold winter evergreen delights with dramatic firey growth in spring, producing clusters of fragrant flowers. Exquisite wedding cake layers of white flowers hover on graceful, arching stems most of winter and spring. The easy-care rounded form stands out with shiny foliage all winter, opening to white bell-shaped blooms in spring. This knee-high shrub is utterly detestable to all deer and Javelina.

Peony

Your grandmother would fall in love with these larger varieties with so many colors to choose from. There’s nothing like the enormous flowers to add vibrant stunning pops of color. Endearing springtime blooms are more than fragrant with luscious double flowers. Perfect for cut flowers in a spring bouquet. These hard mountain varieties take the brutal sun, wind for decades of perennial enjoyment. Deer are Javelina will ignore these peony beauties.

Calgary Carpet Juniper

Rich green mounds of juniper beauty only grow ankle-high for the perfect mountain ground cover. An ideal choice for low water, low care erosion control on natural banks where monsoon run-off is a problem. The perfect green nestled between boulders or soften the top edge of a masonry retaining wall. Ideally used to add color and style next to a barren rock lawn through the winter months. Junipers are always naturally welcome in Japanese gardens or pruned into creative bonsai forms.

Evergreens Make A Garden Look Better

Winter Gem Boxwood shrubs planted down the drive

By Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Winter Gem Boxwood shrubs planted down the drive

On the Go Answer Condensed Version of this Article

  • Boxwood is best planted in late winter through spring
  • The perfect evergreen for short hedges and sculptured topiary
  • Boxwood are drought hardy, so make sure they have drainage in the grand and pots
  • To keep robust green feed plants with 7-4-4 All Purpose Food every Easter, July 4th & Halloween
  • Boxwood is deer, javelina, and rabbit proof
Large Boxwood plants in containers

Thanks to its versatility, boxwood can fit into any landscape, whether a formal or casual design. In winter’s sparse garden, this shrub’s bold shape, vibrant green color, and air of old-world formality can dominate the scene. In summer, when the garden is in full bloom, it blends into the lushness, providing shape and structure. There are 90+ species and over 365 different kinds of boxwood. They vary tremendously in size, shape, leaf characteristics, growth rates, and hardiness. The secret to working with these evergreens is in choosing the varieties that best fit the mountain conditions where you are creating your landscape.

The varieties below can be planted in February through early spring, and most are available here at Watters Garden Center. Here are our top picks and some ways to use them.

Hedges – Boxwood take well to shearing, which makes them likely candidates for hedges. They are suitable for defining different spaces in the garden, as a border along a property line, or for a tidy foundation cover-up.

Proper spacing is easy to calculate when a tight hedge is desired. Read the plant’s tag and space plants at half their suggested mature width. They will fill in exactly the way you want. Here are three of the hardiest mountain varieties ready for planting now:

Winter Gem Boxwood

Variegated English Boxwood

Green Mountain Boxwood

Boxwood in Containers in a rustic setting

Green Accents – Enhance your front door area with a single boxwood or with several of these shapely plants. Use them to define corners in a border or add to billowing borders for structure. These cultivars make it easy:

Chicagoland Green Boxwood

Faulkner Boxwood

Green Velvet Boxwood

Topiary – Select taller varieties for swooping spiral or tiered ball topiary forms. Smaller varieties can be sheared into whatever shape you fancy, from a classic orb to whimsical whatever. Take clippers and shape these varieties:

Green Tower Boxwood

Green Mountain Boxwood

Golden Triumph Boxwood

Containers and Raised beds – Almost all boxwood are candidates for containers because they look just as good in February as they do in Summer. Choose a fast-draining pot that is at least as wide and tall as the plant itself, and preferably bigger. The larger the container, the more soil it holds, and the less often you have to water. This one’s a great container candidate: Petite Pillar Dwarf Boxwood

Keeping Boxwood Happy

Provide excellent drainage – Boxwood are highly adaptable to various soil types, including average or poor soils and acidic or alkaline conditions. Boxwood can’t take standing water and heavy wet soil, which leads to root rot. Prevent this problem by amending your garden soil to a 50% blend of Watters Premium Mulch and native garden soil; then plant on a slight mound in the yard. For containers and raised beds, plant directly into Watters Potting Soil.

Keep them clean – When a boxwood is sheared to produce denser outer foliage, it’s important to clean dead leaves out of the middle of the plant. In late winter, prune back all dying branches to healthy wood, remove all debris from the center of the plant, and thin out some of the outside growth so air and light can reach into a healthy center.

Sun Exposure – Boxwood thrives in either full sun or light shade. But if exposed to extreme winds and full sun, boxwood can struggle the first years in a garden. These conditions are especially common on mountain ridge-lines. Protect boxwood by keeping them vigorous and healthy; water as needed and apply a fresh layer of mulch over the roots to help prevent winter damage. Spray with Watters’ Wilt Stop’ to withstand extreme exposure.

Fertilizing – Apply Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Food in spring, summer, and fall for the greenest plants. Gardeners who plan around holidays use Easter, Independence Day, and Halloween as reminders to feed their healthy boxwood.

Garden Alert – Take advantage of the weather this week and fertilize fruit trees and ALL spring bloomers with Watters Fruit & Vegetable Food.  I know this locally sourced plant food was mentioned in last week’s Soil Prep article, but this is the perfect storm for better fruit, berry, and grape harvest.  My Lilacs and spring-blooming Purple plum, Redbud, and Crabapples received the same food this week.  This special formula is loaded with calcium for larger, sweeter fruits this year.  Apply now and hope for even more snow!

Free Garden ClassWhy January is the Best Month to Plant Wildflowers.  Truly wild seed needs to be planted in winter and this week’s snow is absolutely ideal for starting a new patch of your own.  Join us at this weeks free garden class, January 30 @ 9:30 for all the details here at Watters Garden Center.

Until next issue, I’ll be here at Watters Garden Center helping locals design better winter gardens.

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his web site at WattersGardenCenter.com or  FB.com/WattersGardenCenter .

What Houseplants are Saying when Leaves Curl

Young Woman holding a large houseplant

by Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Young Woman Holding a large houseplant - Houseplant Addiction

On the Go Answer Condensed Version of this Article

  • One of 4 reasons leaves curl on houseplants
  • They need more water
  • Bugs are eating your plant
  • The room is too bright
  • Plants need to be repotted

Reporters from three different states called last week asking how Watters Garden Center has does so much for the community through COVID? The discussion comes up often at family dinners, and a theme emerges. As a garden retailer, we share much with everyone, even those that may not be aware. A garden center is more than a plant store. We are a Backyard Paradise center, Garden Therapy center, Garden Bliss center, Tension Release center, Joy in the Garden center, Stress Relief center, Backyard Nature center, Escape to the Garden center. What do you think of these ideas generated by local gardeners?

January is when you’ll find more houseplants at the garden center than any other month. Trucks of plants fill the greenhouses. You buy the perfect specimen, plant in a brand new ceramic pot, and revel in your garden brilliance. What does it mean when your new plant curls and shed leaves?

Relax – there are only one of four reasons a plant shows curled leaves.

Help, I need water!

A plant that needs water will tell you when it’s thirsty and show faint, curly leaves that often develop brown spots on the ends of the foliage. You need a moisture meter at this point. I’ve often simply left the meter sticking out of the soil for continual reads. Pre-technology, your grandparents stuck a finger in the plants’ soil. When the top 2 inches feels completely dry, soak your plant in the sink for an hour until the soil rehydrates. This is perfect for smaller houseplants. The master bedroom shower works for larger floor plants. Ensure the container has a drainage hole is essential, and don’t drench a plant for more than a half-day.

Houseplant Pests on a leaf

Help, I’m being eaten alive!

Unwelcome bugs cause a lot of issues, with curling leaves being one of them. Holes in the leaves, speckling, yellowing, or pale leaves are other signs of pest problems. This week gardeners had problems with fungus gnats here at Watters. Tiny black gnats buzz around the house, but the larvae live in your houseplants’ soil and eat the plant from the roots up. Systemic Granules obliterates this pest with one dose. Aphids are next and often seen with the naked eye sucking a plant’s lifeforce from the top down.  Triple Action is the safest spray to negate this pest. If in doubt, bring a sample to Watters Garden Center, and we can stick it under the microscope to see what is really going on.

Sun scorched houseplant

Help, I’m burning up!

Not all plants like direct sunlight; any thrive without any. If your plant looking scorched, curled, and crispy, and it’s in direct sunlight, there’s a good chance it wants a darker room in your house.

Help, I can’t . . . Breathe!

Older plants need more room to breathe after 3-4 years in the same container. Fresh potting soil and more space make houseplants happy. Gently pull the plant out of its pot to see the roots. If they have a dense crust of soil around them, you’ll need to give your plant some fresh potting soil.

Bottomline – curling leaves are a plants’ way of talking, and a gardener understands the language. Plants respond quickly to the gardeners’ touch. Check their water level, soil, light, and pest, or simply pluck the curled leaf from the plant, and they look better in no time.

Best Houseplant Food Ever! When leaves are on the yellow side of green, and dropping foliage, give them Root & Grow. I developed this composted tea years ago that reduces transplant shock for new seedlings, tomatoes, and shrubs, but houseplants like it even better. Dump the chemical fertilizers and switch your houseplants over to this organic plant food for outstanding results. My cactus, succulents, and African Violets receive the same food for striking blooms indoor and out.

Until next week, I’ll be helping local gardens with houseplants here at Watters Garden Center.

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his web site at WattersGardenCenter.com or  FB.com/WattersGardenCenter .

9 Plants that Love the Bedroom as Much as You

Aloe Vera plant in a green pot on the counter

by Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Bedrooms are meant to be a haven to recharge your battery, and greenery goes a long way in achieving a sense of serenity. Whether your home is illuminated with natural light or relies on lamps and sconces, these plants love your bedroom as much as you do. Start with this list of tried and true for sounder sleep.

Aloe Vera in a Green Container on a counter

Aloe Vera – The fleshy leaves of this plant need a bright spot in the bedroom but won’t mind if you forget the water for a few weeks. These succulent plants produce offshoots you can remove to start new plants, serving as replacements if you remove leaves to harvest the healing gel for cuts and sunburns.

Corn Plant Dracaena in a container in the living room

Corn Plant (Dracaena) gives homeowners the look of a tree without the unmanageable height issues of a tropical tree. Long, glossy leaves top stout trunks, a concrete plant that serves as a handsome anchor in bedroom corners. Although its name suggests otherwise, the corn plant is poisonous. It should not be kept around nibbling pets or curious children.

english ivy Hedera in a container sitting on a table

English Ivy (Hedera) can behave aggressively when grown in the garden, sending clinging tendrils over structures and up tree trunks. You can take advantage of ivy’s spreading tendencies in the bedroom by training the vines across a small trellis, hoop, or topiary form to create a living work of art. Thriving in all light situations, the English ivy’s trailing vines look attractive in hanging baskets or draped over side tables. Plants do fine with little watering and survive a week-long vacation without a hiccup.

Woman beside a fiddle leaf fig Ficus lyrata plant in a container

Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) is one of the trendiest houseplants around, given its frequent appearance in home magazines and blogs. Its large leaves are its focal point, so providing the right lighting is essential to keeping your plant lush in the bedroom. The plant thrives in shady rooms with the help of an east-facing window. Set your plant on a plate of pebbles filled with water to increase the plant’s vicinity humidity. Fiddle Leaf Fig likes everything in moderation, including light, water, and temperature. Too much or too little of these elements cause the plant to struggle.

palor palm Chamaedorea elegans in a container in the living room

Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) grows in partial to full shade, which is why you’ll see these specimens thriving in office and indoor spaces with little to no natural light. In fact, too much light will burn the parlor palm leaves, so keep this plant away from bright windows in the bedroom. A location close to a steamy bathroom that provides a humidity boost is ideal.

peace lily Spathiphyllum in a container

Peace Lily plants (Spathiphyllum) are one of the most popular plants in bedrooms. Its glossy leaves thrive in all light situations, the roots tolerate a variety of irrigation habits. Peace lilies take the guesswork out of watering by wilting when they’re thirsty and quickly perk up with a drink. If your room has a window, situating a peace lily nearby will increase the white flower-like spathes’ production. For naturally dark bedrooms, choose a plant with variegated foliage.

philodendron hanging on the wall in a bedroom

Philodendron is a non-fussy bedroom plant. They are just as happy trailing from a hanging basket in the corner as they are stealing the spotlight as a trellised specimen. Philodendrons tolerate a wide variety of light but get a bit lanky if conditions are dim. Less is more when it comes to irrigation, and you can easily root new plants in a vase of water if you decide to propagate more plants for a collection.

snake plant Sanseviera in a white container in the bedroom

Snake Plant (Sanseviera) is sometimes nicknamed “mother-in-law’s tongue.” The leathery, strappy leaves have adapted to survive the harsh conditions of West Africa, where the soil is poor and rain is irregular. You don’t have to deal with messy dropped leaves or complicated pruning with the snake plant; just water it every couple of weeks.

spider plant Chlorophytum in a container on a table

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum) lets the personality of this plant infuse your bedroom with fun and fresh air. Nicknamed the airplane plant for its ability to produce multiple “pups” on stems that dangle from the mother plant. You may choose to leave these baby plants or clip them and repot for other rooms.

Until the next issue, I’ll be helping gardeners rest with their plants better here at Watters Garden Center.

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his web site at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Plants.com.

What Happens when Plants are Dormant

Dormant Plants killed by frost

By Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Those new to the four seasons of Northern Arizona: Autumn is a time of intense transition in the yard. Leaves fall off deciduous trees, and flowering perennials bloom one last time before fading underground until spring. This is when evergreens are most noticeable in the landscape.

Desert gardeners new to four-seasons are bewildered by their garden. Why do mountain plants hibernate, and what does it mean?

In garden terms, ‘dormancy’ refers to a perennial plant’s state of temporary metabolic inactivity or minimal activity. Plants go dormant in response to adverse growing conditions, such as the colder months of December through February. Grass lawns go dormant during periods of intense heat or drought in summer. It’s important to remember that perennials don’t die during this period rather in a state of suspended animation. While the outer leaves and above-ground foliage may die back, life still lurks in the plant’s core.

Forsythia Bush

Spring blooming plants such as Forsythia, Lilac, Azalia, and Camellia need this winter season to rest. It requires a tremendous amount of energy to create such fragrance and beauty. These spring bloomers take advantage of Winter to form their spring flowers.

If you’re unsure which of your garden plants are annual or perennial, stick an irrigation flag or popsicle stick in the ground marking your dormant plants. Next spring, you will quickly find out which plants decided to rest through Winter and which plants died ultimately as an annual!

Plants stop growing and conserve energy during this period of dormancy until the right growing conditions present themselves in spring. This happens naturally as the seasons and weather change. This change can also be provoked artificially.

We force many perennials into bloom before their natural bloom cycle. By tricking the plants into flower, we enjoy them out of season for particular holidays. Tulip and daffodil bulbs are artificially chilled, sending them into dormancy, then brought out of inactivity at the desired time and forced to flower, say Valentine’s Day. The same technique is employed for holiday Easter lilies, poinsettias, and Christmas cactus.

This week we forced cyclamens and ornamental peppers to flower for Watters’ winter plant shop. This process is positively unnatural for living plants but fun for gardeners who enjoy them through the winter months.

Outside perennial gardens are in danger should plants break dormancy too soon. Many perennials are lost when an unseasonably warm cycle causes plants to send up new growth and subsequently killed back to the ground when the weather turns cold again. It is recommended that gardens be insulated by a 3-inch layer of Premium Mulch as protection against this thaw-freeze cycle that kills perennials in spring.

Vanderwolf Pine

Not all plants are bothered by this winter cycle. A new crop of evergreens, spruce, and pine just arrived for the winter planting season. Each can easily be planted even on the coldest days with great success. Many are exceptionally large and heavy. You might consider having the larger specimen trees planted for you. Even this week, I had Watters planting crew install a new pine tree in my own yard. Tree planting is back-breaking work.

2021 Garden Classes are just announced. Each hour-long class is held in Watters largest greenhouse every Saturday at 9:30.

January 16 – Happy, Healthy Houseplants with Professional Style

January 23 – Top Local Landscapes with Flare

January 30 – Why January is the Month to Plant Wildflowers

Until we are out of this COVID crisis, Watters will also live stream each class through our Facebook page at FB.com/WattersGardenCenter, same time just on your screen.

Until next week, I’ll be helping local gardeners choose just the right winter plants here at Watters Garden Center.

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his web site at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Plants.com.

How to Grow Evergreen Yew Shrub

Japenese Yew growing in beds along the side of a house

by Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Yews, Taxus, plants are conifers, so they produce cones, along with red berries. They feature evergreen needles in two primary forms, a spreading shrub or a tall columnar tree. They have a relatively fast growth rate that slows as the plant matures. Britain and elsewhere in Europe use the evergreen branches in holiday decorating. Sprigs are cut to be used like holly in natural Christmas decor.

Botanical Name Taxus

Common Name Yew bush, yew tree, yew shrub

Plant Type Evergreen Conifer

Mature Size 4 to 15′ feet tall, depending on the variety

Sun Exposure -4 hours of sun to full shade

Soil Type Loamy, medium moisture, well-draining

Soil pH 6 to 8

Bloom Time Nonflowering

Hardiness Zones 2 to 10

Native Areas Europe, Africa, Asia

How to Grow Yew

Yews often serve as foundation plantings around the home. They are also common in hedges and topiaries. Preferring the shader spaced in the garden, they brighten the north side of tall walls and stucco homes. The low spreading varieties are more suitable for foundation plants or short decorative hedges.

Excellent soil drainage is vital for growing yews. These plants can be susceptible to root rot and other fungal infections, often due to soggy soil conditions. Overall the plants are low-maintenance.

Light

Yew plants can be grown in partial shade, even full shade. Preferring the shader spaced in the mountain garden, they brighten the north side of tall walls and stucco homes. Yew grows well under the canopy of other trees and among pine forests.

Soil

Yew can tolerate several soil types, as long as the soil has good drainage. Poorly drained soil can result in root rot. Yew tends to thrive in rich loamy soil with a soil pH of 6 to 8.

Water

Along with adequate drainage, Yews grow best in moderately moist soil. Irrigate young plants twice a week to maintain soil moisture. Once established, it becomes more tolerant of dry conditions.

Temperature and Humidity

Yews grow in all cold climate conditions in zones 2-8. In scorching summer weather, the shrubs will appreciate more water and shade. Humidity typically isn’t a problem for yews, though they can struggle in scorching, humid summer weather.

Fertilizer

Feed with Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Food 3 times per year (March, July, and October) for denser foliage and deeper green color.

Toxicity of Yew

All parts of yew plants except for the berry’s flesh are poisonous. Even the berries are inedible because of the toxic seed developed inside each berry. Some signs of poisoning in both people and animals include vomiting, difficulty breathing, irregular heart rate, blood pressure, and dilated pupils. The good news is animals find yews equally toxic and leave this plant alone, including deer, elk, javelina, and rabbits.

Pruning

Overgrown yews can be rejuvenated with good pruning and shaped to your preference. It’s not essential to prune annually, but it can be helpful to promote lush growth. The best time to prune is late winter to early spring before the new foliage appears in March. Start by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Use hand pruners or branch loppers to cut stems back to where they join other branches.

Varieties of Yew

Many types of Yew are popular for landscape use, including:

  • Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’: This plant has a columnar shape at around 15′ feet tall X 4′ feet wide and is often used for privacy hedges.
  • Taxus baccata ‘Repandens’: This variety grows roughly 2′ feet tall X 12′ feet wide and is used for foundation plantings or short hedges.
  • Taxus canadensis: Canadian Yew, this species has a spreading growth habit and reaches around 4′ feet tall X 7′ feet wide.
  • Taxus cuspidata ‘Monloo’: This variety grows to 3′ feet tall X 8′ feet wide and is used for foundation plantings or short hedges.
  • Taxus media ‘Hicksii’: This plant also has a columnar shape at 12′ feet tall X 6′ feet wide and is used for privacy hedges.
How to Plant a Yew Bush

Companion Plants with Evergreen Yew

Arizona Cypress

Austrian Pine

Mint Julip Juniper

Red Cluster berry Cotoneaster

Boxwood

View all Our January Companion Plants

See our Current Selection of Evergreen Shrubs on Top10Plants.com

How to Grow Evergreen Boxwood Shrub

Winter Gem Boxwood shrubs planted down the drive

By Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Winter Gem Boxwood down the drive
Winter Gem Boxwood

The Buxus genus includes about 70 species of slow-growing broadleaf evergreens. Most varieties used in mountain landscaping are dwarf varieties. These dwarf boxwood shrubs are prized for their densely packed, light-green leaves and rounded compact growth habit.

Botanical Name Buxus

Common Names Boxwood, English boxwood, box

Plant Type Evergreen shrub

Mature Size Dwarf varieties are typically knee to hip height

Sun Exposure 4+ hours of Full sun

Soil Type Medium moisture loamy soil

Soil pH 6.8 to 7.5

Bloom Time April to May

Flower Color Green to creamy yellow (flowers are not significant)

Hardiness Zones 5 to 9

Native Area Southern Europe, Asia

How to Grow Boxwood Shrubs

Boxwoods are best planted in loamy soil in a full-sun to part-shade location. Their roots are shallow, so the ground must be protected from the heat. Maintain a 3″ layer of Watters Premium Mulch to prevent sunburning of the soil’s roots. Keep the garden soil cool by spreading this 3″ layer of mulch one foot around the plant.

Light

Boxwoods grow in most mountain landscapes. The thick, lustrous foliage is best grown in 4+ hours of full sun during the growing season.

Soil

Boxwood shrubs require well-drained soils, or they will suffer from root rot. Although they may tolerate soils with a lower pH, they prefer alkaline soils with a pH of 6 to 8.

Water

Along with adequate drainage, Boxwood grows best in moderately moist soil. Irrigate young plants twice a week to maintain soil moisture. Once established, it becomes more tolerant of dry conditions.

Temperature and Humidity

Boxwoods typically thrive in the climate conditions in zones 6 to 8. In scorching summer weather, the shrubs will appreciate more water and shade. Zone 5 gardeners may find that stem tips die back in cold weather.

Fertilizer

Feed with Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Food 3 times per year (March, July, and October) for denser foliage and deeper green color.

Propagating Boxwood Shrubs

Boxwood is best propagated by rooting stem cuttings. In midsummer, cut 3′ inch lengths of stem tips off new growth. Remove the lower leaves and scape the bark from one side of the cutting. Dip the cut end in ‘Rooting Powder’ to prevent stem rot and stimulate new root formation. Then plant directly into a container filled with seedling potting soil. Moisten the potting soil and set your plant in a bright location. Check the moisture daily and mist whenever dry. Check for roots every few days by tugging on the cutting.

When the roots are sufficiently developed, transplant your cutting into a larger container filled with Watters Potting Soil. Continue to grow the plant in a sunny window until outdoor planting time the following spring.

Pruning Boxwood Shrubs

Although they are known for their tolerance for hard pruning, most boxwoods will form an excellent informal shape without much pruning at all. Only occasional pruning is required to clean out dead branches or those that are twisted together. When pruning hard for form, trimming can be done almost any time. However, pruning should be avoided in late fall to prevent winter bronzing.

Varieties of Boxwood

There are many kinds of boxwoods, and the best plant for you depends on your particular landscape use.

  • Buxus microphylla ‘Golden Triumph’ is 2′ feet tall X 3′ feet wide; it is valued for its variegated leaves.
  • Buxus microphylla var. japonica, the Japanese Boxwood, is one of the most popular shrubs for low hedges. It is also preferred where a more drought-tolerant shrub is needed. Growing in zones 6 to 9 and has mature dimensions of 6′ feet tall X 10′ feet wide. Japanese boxwoods figure prominently at many historic sites in the Far East.
  • Buxus microphylla ‘Winter Gem’is 4′ feet tall with a similar spread. The cultivar name comes from the pleasing gold and bronze tinges of its foliage in winter.
  • Buxus sempervirens ‘Monrue Green Tower’ is a columnar form, 9 feet tall X 1′ feet wide. It is excellent for a tall screen or for sculpting topiary use. Widespread use is two plants used to flank an entryway.
  • Buxus sempervirons ‘Suffruticosa’ cultivars are favored in gardens because they grow more slowly. These shrubs grow to 2′ feet in height X 2′ feet wide.

Pests/Diseases

A common problem for boxwood shrub is winter bronzing, a shift to reddish-brown or yellowish foliage color caused by winter exposure to wind and sun. One way to address the problem is to spray an anti-desiccant like Wiltstop on the foliage late November and again in late January.

Leafminer, boxwood mite, and boxwood psyllid are common pests. These pests can all be cured by spraying infected plants with Watters Multi-Purpose Insect Spray. Boxwoods can be susceptible to fungal blights and leaf spot, and root rot can also be a problem in poorly-drained soils.

Toxicity of Boxwood

All parts of a boxwood plant are toxic and can cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, and even respiratory failure if ingested. But ingestion is rare, as this plant has no attractive berries, and the leaves just taste bad.

Landscape Uses

Boxwood shrubs are more often grouped together in foundation plantings or to form low hedges. Dwarf boxwoods are famous for their use in formal Cottage or English style landscapes. They respond well to pruning, making them popular as topiary and bonsai plants.

Other uses for these bushes extend beyond the life of the plant. As a cut evergreen for the holiday season, sprigs of it are used in wreaths, garlands, kissing balls, and topiary “tree” arrangements.

How to Plant a Boxwood

Companion Plants with Boxwood for a Stunning Backyard

Arizona Cypress

Austrian Pine

Mint Julip Juniper

Red Cluster berry Cotoneaster

Yew

View all Our January Companion Plants

See our Current Selection of Evergreen Trees on Top10Plants.com

How to Grow Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster shrub Close up of Berries

by Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster, Cotoneaster lacteus, is a graceful arching shrub perfect for natural, low-maintenance landscapes. Plants grow quickly to head height with an informal, organic form. The small oval leaves are dark green with pale green undersides. In fall, the foliage turns a deep purple color, which offers a striking contrast to the clusters of bright red berries. Before the berries emerge in fall, plants produce loads of small white blooms in spring. Butterflies and bees are highly attracted to the tiny flowers. This is an excellent plant if you want to add year-round interest to your landscape. It is often used on slopes for erosion control, as an accent plant, and informal hedges. Plants perform best in 6+ hours of full sun location and can tolerate a variety of soil. Plants have low to moderate water needs once established and prefer good drainage.

Botanical Name         Cotoneaster Parneyi

Common Name         Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster, Milkflower Cotoneaster, Parney Cotoneaster

Plant Type                  Evergreen shrub

Mature Size               8′ ft. tall X 9′ ft. wide

Spacing                       5′ centers for hedge

Sun Exposure            6+ hours of Full sun

Soil Type                    Average, well-draining

Soil pH                       6 to 8 pH

Bloom Time               Spring

Flower Color White, in clusters 2″ to 3″ across

Berries                        Red Summer through Winter

Water                          Low to moderate

Hardiness Zones        6 to 10

Planting Time            Any Season

How to Plant and Grow Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster

The largest of cotoneasters has many uses in landscaping, including hedges, privacy screens, and specimen plantings. This cotoneaster is so tolerant of salt, it can be used near sidewalks, driveways, and roadways. It is rarely damaged by animals, such as rabbits, deer, javelina, elk, and pack rats.

Ensure the location has excellent drainage and gets at least six hours of sun during the growing season. Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster has the same cultural needs as most other cotoneaster species. Container-grown plants should be planted in a large, carefully prepared hole and backfilled with soil amended with Watters Premium Mulch or another acidifying organic material.

Light

Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster grows best in full sun. It prefers at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.

Soil

This plant is tolerant of many different soil types, including sandy, rocky, and clay soils. It does best in average garden soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Good soil drainage is critical.

Water

Along with adequate drainage, Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster grows best in moderately moist soil. Irrigate young plants twice a week to maintain soil moisture. Once cotoneaster is established, it becomes tolerant of dry soil and drought.

Temperature and Humidity

Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster is exceptionally robust in frigid temperatures and well suited for USDA zones 6 to 10, hardy down to zero degrees Fahrenheit. This species prefers cold temperate climates. The plant is tough in dry conditions, as long as its roots aren’t sitting in soggy soil.

Fertilizer

Feed with Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Food 3 times per year (March, July, and October) for best blooms and dense foliage that screens and cuts the wind.

Pruning

Pruning is typically best done annually in the late winter or early spring, just before growth begins in March. Prune dead, broken, or diseased branches. Next, trim back leggy branches to maintain the plant’s shape. Aim to selectively prune branches around the entire plant to increase the amount of light that can reach its center.

Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster is very forgiving of pruning mistakes. So if you prune a bit too much, just give the plant a little growth time to correct your error.

How to Plant a Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster

Companion Plants with Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster for a Stunning Backyard

Arizona Cypress

Austrian Pine

Mint Julip Juniper

Boxwood

Yew

View all Our January Companion Plants

See our Current Selection of Evergreen Trees on Top10Plants.com

How to Grow Mint Julip Juniper

Mint Julep Shrub in planted in the landscape

by Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Mint Julip Juniper Shrub planted in Front of a House

This updated Chinese Juniper has brilliant mint green foliage displayed over an arching form. One of the most constant shrubs in the mountain landscape is planted as shrub borders, mass plantings, or the fringe of natural areas. Evergreen. Moderate growing 5′ ft. tall X 6′ ft. wide.

An informal shrub that is highly adapted to topiary forms. Use as a rugged hedge along driveways and to divide properties. Provides solid foliage to mask crawl spaces and utilities in a foundation planting. Blend with gold and bronze evergreens in mixed shrub borders. The spreading form is an ideal bank cover for erosion control.

Botanical Name Juniperus chinensis

Common Name Mint Julip Juniper, Chinese juniper

Plant Type Evergreen shrub

Mature Size 5′ ft. tall X 6′ ft. wide

Sun Exposure 6+ hours of Full sun

Soil Type Average, well-draining

Soil pH 5.5 to 7.5 pH

Bloom Time Spring

Flower Color Yellow to bronze

Hardiness Zones 4 to 9

Native Area of East Asia

How to Plant and Grow Mint Julip Juniper

This improved Chinese juniper has many uses in landscaping, including hedges, privacy screens and specimen plantings. This juniper is so tolerant of salt, it can be used near sidewalks, driveways, and roadways. It is rarely damaged by animals, such as deer, javelina, elk, and packrats.

Ensure the location has excellent drainage and gets at least six hours of sun during the growing season.

Mint Julip Juniper has the same cultural needs as most other juniper species. Container-grown plants should be planted in a large, carefully prepared hole and backfilled with soil amended with Watters Premium Mulch or another acidifying organic material.

Light

Chinese juniper grows best in full sun. It prefers at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.

Soil

This plant is tolerant of many different soil types, including sandy, rocky, and clay soils. It does best in average garden soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Good soil drainage is critical.

Water

Along with adequate drainage, Chinese juniper grows best in moderately moist soil. Irrigate young plants twice a week to maintain soil moisture. Once juniper is established, it becomes tolerant of dry soil and drought.

Temperature and Humidity

Mint Julip juniper is exceptionally robust in frigid temperatures and well suited for USDA zones 4 to 7, hardy down to minus-25 degrees Fahrenheit. This species prefers cold temperate climates. The plant is tough in humid and dry conditions, as long as its roots aren’t sitting in soggy soil.

Fertilizer

Feed with Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Food 3 times per year (March, July, and October) for best blooms and dense foliage that screens and cuts the wind.

Pruning

Pruning is typically best done annually in the late winter or early spring, just before growth begins in March. Prune dead, broken, or diseased branches. Next, trim back leggy branches to maintain the plant’s shape. Aim to selectively prune branches around the entire plant to increase the amount of light that can reach its center.

Mint Julip Juniper is very forgiving of pruning mistakes. So if you prune a bit too much, just give the plant a little growth time to correct your error. Topiary forms and pompoms are best pruned 3-4 times through the growing season to promote denser growth.

How to Plant a Mint Julip Juniper

Companion Plants with Mint Julip Juniper for a Stunning Backyard

  • Arizona Cypress
  • Austrian Pine
  • Red Clusterberry Cotoneaster
  • Boxwood
  • Yew

View all our January Companion Plants

See our Current Selection of Evergreen Shrubs on Top10Plants.com

How to Grow Alligator Juniper

Alligator Juniper Bark

by Ken Lain, the mountain gardener

Alligator Juniper

Native to Arizona, the Alligator Juniper, Juniperus deppeana, is characterized by unique cracked bark that resembles alligator skin. Alligator and its native cousin, the Shaggy Bark Juniper, are the largest species of their kind growing 40-50′ feet tall at maturity.

Alligator junipers are an essential element for native birds, deer, javelina, and smaller mammals. The large edible berries are enjoyed by many different birds, mammals, even be eaten by humans.

Botanical Name         Juniperus deppeana

Common Name         Alligator juniper, checkerboard                                  juniper, western juniper

Plant Type                  Evergreen tree

Mature Size               40-50′ tall

Sun Exposure            6+ hours of Full sun

Soil Type                    Dry, well-draining

Soil pH                       5.5 – 7.0

Bloom Time               Winter

Flower Color Seed berries

Hardiness Zones        6-9

Native Area                Southwest United States

Alligator Juniper Bark

How to Plant and Grow Alligator Juniper

Alligator Juniper has the same cultural needs as most other juniper species. In their native environment, alligator junipers grow on open, rocky hills and slopes that receive full sun for most of the day. Container-grown or ball-and-burlap trees should be planted in a large, carefully prepared hole and backfilled with soil amended with Watters Premium Mulch or another acidifying organic material.

Light

True to its native habitat, the alligator juniper is a sun-loving tree needing full sun to thrive. Alligator junipers cannot grow in the shade, and growth may be stunted in areas that only receive partial sun.

Soil

Alligator junipers thrive in sandy, well-draining soil that is slightly acidic with a pH between 5.5 – 7.5. However, they are adaptable to a wide variety of soil conditions, as long as the medium is well-draining.

Water

Alligator junipers are drought-tolerant trees with low water needs. An established alligator juniper should not need supplemental watering. Seedlings and young trees do require watering during dry periods. This Arizona native is susceptible to overwatering. Ensuring your tree is planted in well-draining soil to prevent root rot.

Temperature and Humidity

Alligator juniper tolerates temperatures as low as zero degrees through winter dormancy. These junipers grow best in USDA zones 6 to 9.

Fertilizer

Feed with Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Food 3 times per year (March, July, and October) for best blooms and dense foliage that screens and cuts the wind.

Growing from Seed

While alligator junipers can be propagated in other ways, they are most easily grown from seed. Alligator juniper seeds can be sown directly into the garden in the fall. Germination rates are notoriously low, so it’s essential to plant a large number of seeds at one time to ensure some success.

Alligator juniper seeds can be purchased online or in-store. They can be collected directly from a mature tree in the late summer or early fall once the seeds have ripened. If you are not sowing the seeds outdoors immediately, the seeds should be thoroughly air-dried and cleaned to ensure against mold. Before planting, cold-stratified your seed in the refrigerator for 30 days at 20-40 degrees Fahrenheit. It is best to plant your seed directly into the landscape in the fall.

Common Pests/Diseases

Common juniper diseases include twig and tip blight, as well as cedar rusts. Fungicides can help proactively protect alligator junipers against such conditions, but they should be applied before an infection is present. Prompt pruning of any dead or diseased branches should keep these common diseases under control.

Common pests of the alligator juniper include bagworm, spider mites, and juniper scale. Insecticides are an effective way to control infestations.

View all Our January Companion Plants

See our Current Selection of Evergreen Trees on Top10Plants.com